Ärtsoppa med Fläsk (Swedish Yellow Pea Soup with Pork)

Ärtsoppa is Sweden's Thursday soup — by tradition, Swedes eat yellow pea soup every Thursday, a custom so deeply embedded that school cafeterias, the Swedish military, and restaurant chains all serve it on that day without question. The tradition dates to Catholic pre-Reformation Sweden, when Friday was a fasting day and Thursday's hearty soup provided fortification. Split yellow peas are simmered with a ham hock or salted pork until silky and thick, with the subtle sweetness of peas mellowing the saltiness of the pork. It is almost always followed by pannkakor (Swedish pancakes) with jam — the national Thursday dessert. A spoonful of hot yellow Swedish mustard stirred in at the table is the traditional finish.

Serves: 6

Ingredients

• 500g (1 lb 2 oz) dried Swedish yellow peas (gula ärter), soaked overnight
• 600g (1.3 lb) salted pork belly or smoked ham hock
• 2 litres (8 cups) water
• 1 large onion, finely diced
• 1 tsp dried thyme
• 1 tsp dried marjoram
• 2 bay leaves
• Salt to taste
• Swedish yellow mustard (Slotts senap), to serve

Instructions

1. Drain the soaked yellow peas and rinse well. Place in a large pot with the salted pork (or ham hock) and water. Bring to a boil, skimming any grey foam that rises during the first 10 minutes.
2. Add onion, thyme, marjoram, and bay leaves. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Cook uncovered for 1 hour, continuing to skim occasionally.
3. Remove the pork. If using salted belly, slice it into serving pieces. If using a hock, pull the meat off the bone and shred it. Set meat aside.
4. Continue simmering the peas for another 30-45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they have dissolved into a thick, smooth soup. Most of the peas should fully break down. If the soup is too thick, add a little hot water.
5. Remove bay leaves. Season carefully with salt — the pork will have contributed significant saltiness already. Return meat to the pot to warm through.
6. Ladle into bowls and serve with Swedish mustard on the side for stirring in.

Cook's Notes: Do not skip the overnight soak — Swedish yellow peas are harder than green split peas and need the time. If the soup solidifies completely upon cooling (which it will), simply reheat with a splash of water; it only improves on the second day. Pork shoulder or smoked knuckle can substitute if salted belly is unavailable.