Soegogi Twigim

Twigim — Korean-style deep-frying — produces a dramatically light, shatteringly crisp coating quite different from Western breadcrumbed frying. The batter is made with ice-cold water and kept deliberately lumpy, preventing gluten development and producing an airy, lacey crust. Soegogi twigim features thin strips of beef marinated in soy, sesame, and grated pear (which tenderises the meat enzymatically), then battered and fried. Found at pojangmacha (street food stalls) and served as anju (drinking snacks), the contrast between crisp batter and tender, sweet-savoury beef is its defining pleasure.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

Beef and marinade:

• 400 g (14 oz) beef sirloin, sliced against the grain into strips 5 mm (¼ in) thick
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce; 1 tablespoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon grated Asian pear or kiwi (tenderiser)
• 1 teaspoon sugar; 2 garlic cloves, minced; ½ teaspoon black pepper

Batter:

• 120 g (1 cup) plain flour; 30 g (¼ cup) cornstarch
• 1 egg, beaten; 180 ml (¾ cup) ice-cold sparkling water; ½ teaspoon salt

For frying: about 1 litre (4 cups) vegetable oil

Dipping sauce: 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 1½ tablespoons rice vinegar, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 fresh red chilli and 1 spring onion, both thinly sliced

Instructions

1. Combine all marinade ingredients with the beef. Mix well and marinate 30 minutes at room temperature or up to 4 hours refrigerated. Stir together dipping sauce and set aside.
2. Heat oil in a deep, heavy pot to 180 °C (355 °F).
3. Just before frying, make the batter: stir flour, cornstarch, and salt together. Combine beaten egg with the ice-cold water. Pour wet over dry and stir only 4–5 times — the batter should remain lumpy with some dry flour visible. Do not overmix.
4. Pat marinated beef strips dry. Working in batches of 6–8 strips, dip each in batter letting excess drip off, then lower immediately into hot oil. Fry 2–3 minutes, turning once, until pale golden. Remove and drain on a wire rack. Return oil to 180 °C between batches.
5. For extra crispiness, return all strips to 190 °C (375 °F) oil for 45–60 seconds until deep golden.
6. Serve immediately with dipping sauce and steamed short-grain rice.

Cook's Notes: Make batter with ice-cold liquid immediately before frying — never in advance. Cold liquid slows gluten formation and guarantees a lighter crust. A small addition of vodka or soju to the batter also boosts crispness.