Osso Buco alla Milanese

Osso buco — "hollow bone" in Italian — is Milan's great winter braise, cross-cut veal shanks slow-cooked in white wine, stock, and vegetables until the meat surrenders from the bone and the marrow in the hollow center becomes a rich, spoonable delicacy. It is traditionally served with saffron risotto (risotto alla Milanese), and finished with gremolata — a bright condiment of lemon zest, parsley, and garlic that cuts through the richness like a ray of light. The dish appears in Milanese records as far back as the 19th century.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 4 cross-cut veal shanks, 4–5 cm (1.5–2 in) thick, about 350 g (12 oz) each
• Salt and black pepper
• Plain flour for dredging
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 60 g (4 tbsp) unsalted butter
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 2 celery stalks, finely diced
• 1 medium carrot, finely diced
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 240 ml (1 cup) dry white wine
• 400 g (14 oz) canned whole tomatoes, crushed
• 350 ml (1.5 cups) veal or chicken stock
• 2 bay leaves

Gremolata: zest of 1 lemon, 1 small garlic clove minced, 3 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Instructions

1. Pat veal shanks dry; tie with kitchen twine around the circumference to hold shape. Season generously with salt and pepper; dredge lightly in flour.
2. Heat olive oil and butter in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown shanks 4–5 minutes per side until deeply golden. Remove and set aside.
3. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion, celery, and carrot; cook 8–10 minutes until soft. Add garlic; cook 1 minute.
4. Pour in white wine; scrape up browned bits. Simmer 3–4 minutes until wine reduces by half.
5. Add tomatoes and stock. Nestle shanks back in, marrow side up. Liquid should come halfway up the shanks. Add bay leaves, cover, and braise over very low heat 1.5–2 hours until meat is fall-off-the-bone tender.
6. Mix gremolata ingredients together. Remove twine from shanks. Serve over saffron risotto or polenta, spooning braising liquid over each portion. Top with gremolata.

Cook's Notes: Keep the marrow intact by always setting shanks marrow side up and never allowing a hard boil. The braising liquid should be a gentle, barely-bubbling simmer throughout.