Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki — whose name translates loosely as 'cook what you like' — is Osaka's answer to the omelette and the pancake: a thick savoury batter packed with shredded cabbage and your choice of fillings, cooked on a teppan griddle and finished with a cascade of toppings. Osaka-style features pork belly layered on top and uses yamaimo (Japanese mountain yam) for a uniquely tender, almost custardy interior. It is the ultimate comfort food of western Japan, and the toppings are half the pleasure.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

Batter:

• 120g (1 cup) plain flour
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 160ml (2/3 cup) dashi stock (or water with 1 tsp dashi powder)
• 2 eggs
• 100g (3.5 oz) yamaimo (nagaimo), peeled and grated (or substitute with an extra egg)
• 400g (14 oz / about half a head) green cabbage, finely shredded
• 4 spring onions, sliced
• 200g (7 oz) thinly sliced pork belly

Toppings:

• Okonomiyaki sauce (or mix equal parts Worcestershire and ketchup)
• Japanese mayonnaise
• Aonori (dried green seaweed flakes)
• Katsuobushi (bonito flakes)

Instructions

1. Whisk flour, baking powder, dashi, eggs, and grated yamaimo until just combined (a few lumps are fine). Fold in cabbage and spring onions.
2. Heat a large non-stick pan or griddle over medium heat and add a thin layer of neutral oil. Pour in batter to form a round about 2cm (3/4 inch) thick. Lay pork belly slices over the top.
3. Cook 5–6 minutes until the underside is set and golden. Flip carefully, press gently, and cook another 5–6 minutes until cooked through.
4. Transfer to a plate pork-side up. Drizzle generously with okonomiyaki sauce, then zigzag with Japanese mayo. Scatter with aonori and top with katsuobushi — watch it wave in the heat.

Cook's Notes: Do not overmix the batter — gluten development makes the okonomiyaki tough. The yamaimo is the secret to the signature light, gooey texture; find it at Japanese or Korean grocery stores. Leftovers reheat well in a dry pan.