Kerala Fish Curry

Meen curry from Kerala's coastal belt is one of India's most distinctive fish preparations, cooked in an earthenware pot called a manchatti that imparts a subtle mineral quality to the gravy. The defining flavours are Kodampuli (Gamboge/Malabar tamarind), ground coconut, and the slow-built heat of Kashmiri and bird's-eye chillies. Traditionally made with kingfish or sardines, it improves dramatically overnight.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 700g (1½ lb) firm fish steaks (kingfish, mackerel, or snapper), cut into 4cm pieces
• 4 pieces Kodampuli (Malabar tamarind) or 1 tsp kokum
• 100ml (7 tbsp) hot water
• 2 tbsp coconut oil
• 1 tsp mustard seeds
• 20 fresh curry leaves
• 2 medium onions, finely sliced
• 1 tbsp fresh ginger, julienned
• 6 garlic cloves, sliced
• 3 green chillies, slit
• 2 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder
• 1 tsp coriander powder
• ½ tsp turmeric
• 200ml (¾ cup) coconut milk
• Salt to taste

Instructions

1. Soak Kodampuli (15 minutes): Soak the tamarind pieces in 100ml hot water. Set aside.
2. Build the base (10 minutes): Heat coconut oil in a deep pan or earthenware pot over medium heat. Splutter mustard seeds, then fry curry leaves 20 seconds. Add sliced onions and cook 8–10 minutes until golden at the edges.
3. Aromatics (3 minutes): Add ginger, garlic, and green chillies. Fry 2 minutes. Add Kashmiri chilli powder, coriander, and turmeric. Fry 1 minute, adding a splash of water to prevent burning.
4. Add liquids: Pour in the soaked Kodampuli along with its soaking water. Add coconut milk and 100ml (7 tbsp) plain water. Bring to a gentle simmer.
5. Cook fish (12–15 minutes): Slide fish pieces into the simmering gravy. Do not stir — shake the pan gently. Cook uncovered 12–15 minutes until the fish is cooked through and the oil floats to the surface. Season with salt.
6. Rest: Allow to rest 10 minutes before serving over steamed red rice.

Cook's Notes: Kodampuli cannot be substituted with regular tamarind — the flavour profile is entirely different. If unavailable, use kokum. The curry improves dramatically the next day as the flavours meld.