Cantonese Beef Chow Fun

Gan chao niu he — dry-fried beef ho fun — is considered the ultimate test of a Cantonese wok cook's skill. The wide, silky rice noodles must be stir-fried at ferocious heat with thinly sliced beef, bean sprouts, and scallions, achieving wok hei — the elusive "breath of the wok," a smoky, slightly charred fragrance that only comes from intense heat and the right technique. No sauce pools at the bottom of the plate; the dish should be dry, each noodle kissed by heat. Hong Kong cha chaan tengs serve it at breakfast through to late night.

Serves: 2

Ingredients

Beef marinade:

• 200g (7 oz) beef sirloin or flank, sliced paper-thin against the grain
• 1 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp oyster sauce
• 1 tsp cornstarch
• ½ tsp baking soda
• 1 tsp neutral oil

Noodles:

• 400g (14 oz) fresh wide flat rice noodles (ho fun)
• 3 tbsp neutral oil with high smoke point
• 1 tbsp dark soy sauce
• 1 tbsp light soy sauce
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• 100g (3.5 oz) bean sprouts
• 2 scallions, cut into 5 cm pieces
• Salt to taste

Instructions

1. Combine beef with marinade ingredients. Mix well and rest for 20 minutes.
2. If fresh noodles are cold and clumped, briefly microwave for 1 minute or separate gently with your hands. Do not rinse them.
3. Heat a wok over the highest heat possible — ideally until faint smoke appears — for 3 minutes. Add 2 tbsp oil and swirl to coat.
4. Add beef in a single layer without stirring for 30 seconds, then stir-fry vigorously for 1 minute until just cooked through. Remove and set aside.
5. Wipe wok quickly if needed, add remaining 1 tbsp oil, and return to maximum heat. Add noodles in one layer and leave undisturbed for 45 seconds so they develop char on one side.
6. Add dark and light soy sauces. Toss noodles aggressively with wok spatula for 1 minute.
7. Return beef, add bean sprouts and scallions. Toss everything together for 90 seconds. Drizzle with sesame oil.
8. Taste and adjust salt. Serve immediately.

Cook's Notes: Wok hei only happens with very high heat and a dry wok — moisture kills it. Cook for a maximum of two servings at once; more food lowers the temperature and causes steaming instead of frying. Day-old noodles from a Chinese grocery store give the best texture.