Tonkotsu Ramen

Born in Fukuoka's Hakata district in the 1940s, tonkotsu ramen is defined by its opaque, ivory-white broth made from pork bones boiled at a rolling boil for hours until collagen and marrow transform the liquid into something almost creamy. Hakata ramen shops are famous for their kaedama system — diners order extra noodles to drop into their remaining broth. Making proper tonkotsu at home is a weekend commitment, but the result is unlike anything from a packet.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

Broth:

• 1.5 kg (3.3 lb) pork trotters and neck bones
• 200g (7 oz) pork fatback
• 1 onion, halved and charred
• 6 garlic cloves
• 30g (1 oz) fresh ginger, sliced

Tare (seasoning sauce):

• 80ml (⅓ cup) soy sauce
• 60ml (¼ cup) mirin
• 2 tbsp sake

To serve:

• 400g (14 oz) fresh thin ramen noodles
• 4 slices chashu pork belly (braised rolled pork)
• 4 soft-boiled eggs, halved
• 4 tbsp bamboo shoots (menma)
• 4 sheets toasted nori
• 4 tsp sesame oil
• Thinly sliced scallions
• Toasted sesame seeds
• Beni shoga (pickled red ginger)

Instructions

1. Cover bones with cold water, bring to a boil for 10 minutes, then drain and rinse thoroughly. This removes impurities.
2. Return bones to a large pot with fatback, charred onion, garlic, and ginger. Cover with 3.5 litres (15 cups) cold water. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat and maintain a vigorous boil — not a simmer — for 3 hours, adding water to keep bones submerged. The broth should turn milky white.
3. Strain broth, discarding solids. Season to taste with salt. You should have about 2 litres (8 cups) of rich broth.
4. Combine tare ingredients in a small saucepan and simmer 5 minutes. Add 2 tbsp tare per serving bowl.
5. Cook noodles according to package instructions, about 90 seconds for fresh. Drain well.
6. Heat broth to a vigorous boil. Ladle 400ml (1⅔ cups) hot broth into each bowl. Add noodles, then arrange chashu, egg, bamboo shoots, and nori. Drizzle with sesame oil and garnish with scallions, sesame seeds, and beni shoga.

Cook's Notes: The vigorous boil is essential — a gentle simmer produces a clear, lighter broth, not the creamy tonkotsu style. Broth can be made 3 days ahead and refrigerates well. The fat cap that solidifies on top is flavourful; stir it back in when reheating.