Yunnan Wild Mushroom Soup

Yunnan Province is the mushroom capital of China, accounting for more than 80% of the country's wild mushroom species. Every summer and autumn, markets overflow with dozens of varieties: porcini, matsutake, morels, chanterelles, and the prized but hallucinogenic jian shou qing. This clear soup celebrates that abundance with a restrained technique — the mushrooms are barely cooked to preserve their perfume, the broth kept light so nothing masks the forest fragrance. It is the dish Yunnan locals make when they want to show off a haul from the hills.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 400g (14 oz) mixed wild mushrooms (porcini, chanterelle, oyster, or any available), cleaned and torn into large pieces
• 1.2 litres (5 cups) light chicken broth
• 3 slices fresh ginger
• 2 garlic cloves, lightly smashed
• 1 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine
• 1 tsp light soy sauce
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• Salt and white pepper, to taste
• Small handful of fresh chives or coriander, to serve
• 1 tbsp lard or neutral oil

Instructions

1. Bring the chicken broth to a simmer in a medium pot with the ginger and garlic. Simmer for 10 minutes to infuse, then remove the ginger and garlic.
2. Heat the lard in a wok over high heat until shimmering. Add the mushrooms and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes without disturbing too much, allowing them to brown lightly in places.
3. Splash in the Shaoxing wine and toss for 30 seconds. Transfer the mushrooms to the simmering broth.
4. Add the soy sauce and simmer gently for 5 minutes — no longer, to preserve the mushrooms' texture and fragrance.
5. Stir in the sesame oil and season with salt and white pepper. Ladle into bowls and top with fresh chives or coriander.

Cook's Notes: Never boil this soup vigorously after adding the mushrooms — a gentle simmer preserves their aroma. Dried mushrooms can substitute if fresh are unavailable; soak them in warm water for 30 minutes and use the soaking liquid (strained) as part of the broth for deeper flavor.