Mapo Tofu

Mapo tofu is one of Sichuan cuisine's most iconic exports — silken tofu trembling in a volcanic sauce of doubanjiang (fermented broad bean and chili paste), ground pork, Sichuan peppercorn, and black fermented beans. The dish was born in late Qing dynasty Chengdu, credited to a pockmarked (ma) old woman (po) who ran a small restaurant near a cooking oil shop frequented by coolies needing something cheap, warming, and deeply fortifying. The hallmark of an authentic version is the "mala" sensation — the numbing (ma) heat of Sichuan pepper married to the fiery (la) chili — that leaves the lips tingling and the palate alive.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 600 g (1 lb 5 oz) silken or soft tofu, cut into 2.5 cm (1 in) cubes
• 150 g (5 oz) minced pork
• 2 tablespoons doubanjiang (Pixian fermented broad bean paste)
• 1 tablespoon douchi (fermented black beans), roughly chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated
• 1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns, toasted and ground
• 300 ml (1¼ cups) chicken or pork stock
• 2 tablespoons neutral oil
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 2 teaspoons cornflour (cornstarch) mixed with 3 tablespoons cold water
• 3 spring onions, green parts only, sliced
• 1 teaspoon chili oil (optional)

Instructions

1. Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a gentle simmer. Slide in the tofu cubes and poach for 3 minutes. This firms the tofu slightly and prevents it from breaking during stir-frying. Drain carefully.
2. Heat oil in a wok over high heat until shimmering. Add the minced pork and stir-fry, breaking it up, for 3–4 minutes until cooked through and slightly crispy at the edges.
3. Add the doubanjiang and douchi. Stir-fry for 2 minutes — the oil will turn a brilliant red-orange. Add garlic and ginger, stir for 30 seconds.
4. Pour in the stock, soy sauce, and sugar. Bring to a boil.
5. Gently slide in the poached tofu. Reduce heat to medium. Simmer for 4–5 minutes, nudging the tofu with a spoon (never stir aggressively).
6. Pour in the cornflour slurry gradually while gently swirling the wok until the sauce coats the tofu in a glossy, clingy glaze.
7. Plate immediately. Finish with ground Sichuan pepper, spring onion greens, and a drizzle of chili oil.

Cook's Notes: Pixian doubanjiang from Sichuan province is aged for at least one year and is far superior to generic alternatives — seek it out at Chinese supermarkets. Do not substitute Sichuan peppercorns; their floral, citrusy numbing quality is irreplaceable. Silken tofu will break easily — use a wide spatula and gentle movements throughout.