Fujian Red Wine Lees Chicken (Hóng Zāo Jī)

Fujian province faces the Taiwan Strait, and its cuisine is defined by the sea, by mountains, and by a profound love of fermented ingredients. Hong zao — the crimson lees left after pressing Fujian red glutinous rice wine — is the defining flavoring of the region. It imparts a deep brick-red color, a gentle sweetness, and a complex umami earthiness that no other ingredient replicates. This braised chicken dish is served at Fujianese festivals and family reunions; it signals abundance and effort. The lees are whisked into the braising liquid where they slowly dissolve, tinting everything around them. Finding hong zao outside China may require a trip to a well-stocked Chinese grocery, but the hunt is worthwhile.

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 1 whole chicken (about 1.5 kg / 3 lb 5 oz), cut into 10 pieces, or equivalent bone-in thighs
• 120 g (½ cup) hong zao (Fujian red wine lees / red glutinous rice lees)
• 2 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine
• 1 tbsp light soy sauce
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• 1 tbsp neutral oil
• 6 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
• 4 slices fresh ginger
• 1 tsp sugar
• 250 ml (1 cup) water
• Salt to taste
• 2 spring onions, sliced, to garnish

Instructions

1. Rinse chicken pieces and pat dry. Season lightly with salt and let rest 10 minutes at room temperature.
2. In a small bowl whisk together the hong zao, Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, and sugar until the lees are mostly dissolved into a paste. Set aside.
3. Heat neutral oil in a wok or wide skillet over high heat. Working in batches, sear the chicken pieces skin-side down for 3–4 minutes until the skin is golden and pulls away cleanly. Flip and sear the other side 2 minutes. Remove to a plate.
4. Reduce heat to medium. Add garlic and ginger to the wok and stir-fry 30 seconds until fragrant.
5. Add the hong zao paste and stir constantly for 1 minute — it will deepen in color and smell toasty.
6. Return all the chicken to the wok. Pour in water, stir to combine, and bring to a boil.
7. Reduce heat to low, cover, and braise 35 minutes, turning chicken halfway through.
8. Uncover, increase heat to medium-high, and reduce the sauce 5–8 minutes until it coats the back of a spoon.
9. Finish with sesame oil, taste and adjust salt. Garnish with spring onions and serve with steamed rice.

Cook's Notes: Hong zao (also labelled as hong qu zao or red yeast rice lees) is available in Chinese supermarkets refrigerated or in sealed pouches. It is the byproduct of making Fujian rice wine and carries living cultures — refrigerate and use within two weeks of opening. For a smokier version traditional cooks add a small piece of dried tangerine peel to the braise.